Salerno

Salerno’s the city the Amalfi Coast would rather you didn’t notice. It sits at the eastern end of the same gulf, a real working port of about 125,000, with a palm-lined seafront that runs for two kilometres, a knot of a medieval old town, and, the part nobody expects, apartments at a third of what Positano charges an hour up the road. It isn’t pretty in the postcard way. It’s something better: a liveable southern city that happens to be the front door to the coast, to Pompeii, and to the wild beaches of the Cilento.