Perugia

Perugia is the Italy that doesn't perform for anyone. It just lives.

It sits on a hilltop in the green center of the country, a medieval and Etruscan town wrapped in stone, with an old quarter you climb into on escalators and a little driverless train that carries you up from the parking below. The view from the top runs for miles over Umbrian hills. This is the capital of Umbria, the region Italians call the green heart, and it has the calm to match.